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• Day 2 began with introductions to the porters and cooks who would support us on our journey.  There were 16 people to support 15 trekkers and while this might seem like a lot, they carried everything on their backs including tents, tables, chairs, food, stove, propane gas and our excess gear.  Each of us introduced ourselves and Christian translated as most of the porters spoke Quechwa. Christian asked everyone where they were from, age, family, etc.  I said I wasn’t going to tell them my age. Tom introduced himself in Spanish and of course told everyone that I’m 58.

We then started the hardest trek most of us had ever experienced.  We were ascending from 9,870 feet to 13818 feet.  The combination of the altitude and steep climb made it difficult to breathe but fortunately we stopped frequently.

We stopped for lunch about halfway up the mountain for another delicious meal but the conversation was the most memorable.  Our guide Christian was asking questions to improve his English and we somehow got into a discussion about the difference between crispy and crunchy. This led to us trying to give examples with people shouting out foods; potato chips, apples, roasted chicken, etc.  The problem was we had trouble explaining the difference so I think we just confused him more.  We sounded like a Seinfeld episode.

Christian liked learning what he called bigger words and “unbelievable” became his favorite.  He did work it into the conversation whenever he could.

The afternoon walk to the summit was challenging.  Our guide suggested breathing techniques to our lung capture more oxygen but the only thing that helped was walking very slowly and breaking often.  When we were only about 100 yards from the top I (Beth) became nauseous and lightheaded. Eventually we made it to the top!

 

The rest of the day was an equally steep decent.  It was also foggy, cold and wet so we weren’t the only ones taking it slowly.  We walked with Tatiana, Tim and Iffy.  Iffy had a minor fall because of the wet rocks but wasn’t hurt.  Fortunately we all made it down safely to the valley and our camp.

Our day started getting to know our fellow trekkers: Eric & Haley (St Louis), Michael & Yujin (Washington),  Tim & Iffy  (Australia /UK),  Aaron, Soma & Louie (young  lads from London),  Kimo (Austalia),  Tatiana (Russian living in Amsterdam), Chris & Aaron (Canada). Our guides were Christian (with 10 years experience) and Pablo.

We started at a much lower altitude than Cusco (9409 feat vs 11,186 feet). We would drop down to 8,429 feet and finish the day at 9,870 feet.  There was always one guide at the front controlling the pace and one behind the last trekker at the back where we usually were.

 

We were the last group to get on the Inca trail that day (only 500 people are allowed on each day and you must have a guide.  The lead guide would periodically stop throughout the day so the group could get together. He would usually give us information abut the Incan culture or about a particular ruin we might be passing.

For lunch they provide a dining tent in which they served multiple courses of Peruvian cooking. The porters and cooks  worked incredibly hard each day.  They would carry around 55 pounds on their  backs and race ahead of us to have the camp and meals set up for when we got there.

Our first campsite was behind a ladies home where we had a “proper toilet”.   We start every evening in the dining tent for happy hour tea followed by a meal with multiple courses of food that were incredibly delicous.  We had a blast getting to know the various “personalities” in the group.  Micheal was the philosopher in our group who would always provide us with many deep quotes like “the mountain doesn’t change, you change”.  After a great evening Beth and I went to sleep in our tent which was cramped with all our gear.  Tomorrow, we go to the summit (Dead Woman’s Pass) at 13,818 feet.

 

 

 

Continue reading “9/15/17 Cusco to Ollantaytambo”

Today is our last day in Cusco before we head to the Sacred Valley and then the Inca trail to Machu Picchu.  We spent a mostly quiet day but the highlight was a cooking class that our instructor, Elvira, called more of a culinary experience than a class.  These classes range from 2 to 10 people and we were the only ones in the class.  It was like getting a personal lesson.  We started out in their market learning about the indigenous food of Peru.  For example, there are 3000 different types of potatoes, 30 different types of corn and 5 different types of quinoa.

We then did a fruit tasting and tried different fruits including some that are pre-Inca period so they have been around for thousands of years.

We made Peruvian drinks, a Picso Sour  and lighter summer version. Both contain Pisco, an 80 proof, which tasted a little like vodka. Tom got to shake it up.

We made ceviche, a raw fish dish and Loma Saltado, a stir fried flaming dish with Alpaca.  If anyone is counting that’s 3 days in a row eating Alpaca!

We finished the class by eating our work and it was delicious!

We may not have WiFi starting tomorrow.  If we don’t we’ll catch up when we can.

Last night we went out to dinner and had alpaca. It tasted like steak.

In the morning we went on a 3 hour walking tour of Cusco.  Our guide, Elvis in the white hat below, took us around to see some historical buildings and churches. We learned alot about ancient Incan history and visited the San Pedro market which was cool and tasted some exotic fruits.

We are still breathing hard going up steep hills which has us concerned.  We drink coca tea and you’re also supposed to chew coca leaves to help with the altitude’s effects.  Elvis told us that Peruvians are small but have big lungs to handle the lack of oxygen.

We went to check in at our tour group and we asked to see the ages of the people in our group. Almost all were in there 20’s (ugh) with a 53 year old couple and someone around 40. We were hoping for a group of 60 year olds with bad knees, oh well.  I guess we are the patriach/matriarch of this group.  Maybe we’ll  get special privileges like a free alpaca ride!

Had lunch overlooking the plaza at a traditional Peruvian restaurant.  They had alpaca skewers (how do you say no when they have alpaca on the menu! ).  We also had cicha morada, which is a local drink made with blue corn, pineapple and lime.   It tasted like cranberry juice to me.

We arrived late on Monday and stayed at the Wyndham Hotel a block from the airport. Luckily, planes stop coming in around 11 pm, otherwise it would have been like trying to sleep on the runway.  The next morning we flew into Cusco to experience what 11000 ft feels like.  We get winded fast climbing up the steep narrow streets of Cusco and we feel a little compression on our heads but that’s all for now.

We ran some errands in the afternoon (Sim card, bank, etc).  We stopped by a bakery called El Buen Pastor where the profits provide a home for 50 neglected young girls.  In addition to shelter they also provide them with an education and skills training, etc.   I’m sure we’ll be back.

We are staying at a cool little hotel called Hotel Terra Viva San Blas. Everyone here is extremely nice. We should have a nice couple of days here as we get acclimated to the altitude. They have a beautiful garden, we just hope it’s warm enough to sit outside.

Traffic here is insane.  Most sidewalks can only fit one person.  The only thing between us  and the cars’ sideview mirrors seem to be about 8 inches.  Love those small narrow streets though. So much fun to walk even if it’s difficult breathing.

Toughest part so far is having to abstain from alcohol to avoid getting altitude sickness. There’s a big glass of wine waiting for us when this is all over!

We are on our way to our latest adventure, the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. Leaving from Cusco we’ll hike for 5 days through the Andes to get to the ancient Inca city of Machu Picchu.  The biggest challenge is the altitude and elevation.  The trail begins at an elevation of 9000 ft, drops to 8366 ft  and peaks at 13750 ft ominously known as “Dead Woman’s Pass”.  Tom and I believe we’re ready for the challenge.

We’ve trained by hiking Mount Tammany at the Delaware Water Gap several times along with our usual hikes in the South Mountain and Watchung Reservations.  We also visited our doctor and have medication to help with the potential altitude sickness.  We’ll update the blog as we can along the way.  Wish us well!

Today we visited the massive War Museum that is located a few blocks from where we were staying.  There were many exhibits that showed their appreciation to all the countries that helped them during the Korean War.  Additionally, it showed all the politics that caused this war to happen in the first place.  Very sad.

After this we went back down to Itaewan district for an early dinner before the crowds showed up.

Tomorrow’s our last day.  We don’t have much planned. We are going to the Myeongdong district to look around and then we will meet up with John, Sun Young and Alex for some local Korean BBQ.

 

 

Today we visited the main palace (Geongbokgung) of the Joseon Dynasty.  This palace was bigger than the other palaces we visited and had some impressive views as well.

There was a group of small statues near the folk museum where you could find what animal is associated with the year that you were born in the Chinese Zodiac calendar.  Beth and Matt were the “year of the pig”.  I was the “year of the monkey”!  Maybe that’s why I like bananas so much.

After that we explored more back alleys in the Insadong district.  It’s amazing how many restaurant/tea houses are tucked away down these tiny alleyways in Seoul.

At night, we visited the North Seoul tower which gave us impressive views of Seoul at night.  After that we went back to Itaewon district behind the Hamilton hotel to get a burger.  The amount of watering holes in that area was amazing.

 

On Monday, Matt had an afternoon visit with a HOLT counselor (Esther) in the afternoon.

On Tuesday, we did  USO tour of the DMZ & JSA (Joint Security Area).  First stop was the refurbished (last stop in South Korea) Dorasan train station.  The tracks continue into North Korea but no trains travel there anymore.  They used to have some freight trains travel into North Korea but that stopped in 2008.

Next stop was the observatory where you can see North Korea beyond the demarcation line (DMZ). North Korea plays propaganda on their speakers and South Korea plays music (as can be heard on the video below).

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South Korea found 4 tunnels that were dug by the North Koreans.  We were able to enter one of them (no pictures allowed) and go up to the North Korean border underground where the tunnel has been plugged up.  There are supposedly many more tunnels that they have not found.  

Lastly we went to the JSA and Freedom House where we crossed over into North Korea in one of the blue houses.  The demarcation line is the speaker phones on the conference table desk in the picture below.

In the distance, you can see a North Korean soldier standing on the steps off to the left.  There are usually two soldiers standing guard there.  They call them “Bob and Steve”.